Unique Vehicles NJ

Buying from a US dealer

The truck is already in the country, which removes most import risk and replaces it with the ordinary used-vehicle kind. The paperwork question does not disappear, though — it moves.

What to check before money moves

• The import paperwork. EPA and DOT entry forms and the Japanese export certificate. Some states want to see the original import file even on a vehicle that has already been titled in the US, and it is far harder to obtain after the sale.
• The title, and what it says. Check the classification on it, not just that one exists — some states title these as “Mini Truck” or an off-road class, which may not convert into a road-legal title where you live. Our title transfer guide covers what actually happens.
• See it, or send someone. The advantage of buying domestically is that inspection is possible. Rust is what kills these, and it is not visible in photographs — our inspection checklist covers where to look.
• Service history, if any exists. Most imports arrive with none. Assume the timing belt is unknown and budget for it rather than believing a verbal “it was done”.
• Your own state, first. Eleven states will not register a kei truck for road use at all. Confirm on the regulations tracker before you commit — a seller has no reason to raise it, and it is the most expensive thing to discover afterwards.

What a fair price looks like

A US dealer's price already includes the import cost, their margin, and the work of getting it here. That is usually worth paying for — the comparison to make is against the all-in landed cost of importing the same truck yourself. The import cost calculator gives you that number, including the 25% Chicken Tax where it applies, so you can tell which side of the trade you are on.

This dealer ships nationwide, so you are not limited to buying near home — but a vehicle you have not seen is a vehicle you have not inspected, whoever is selling it.