Overview
I built my first bed rack for the Hijet because I needed to haul 12-foot lumber and the bed is... not 12 feet. Three hours and $280 later, that rack has carried rooftop tents, lumber, kayaks, and — once — an unreasonable amount of Christmas lights. (Maria had opinions about that one.)
A bed rack transforms your kei truck from a simple hauler into a versatile adventure or work platform. If you're into overlanding with a kei truck, a rack is basically step one. Because kei truck beds are compact — check the bed setup guide for exact dimensions by model — a rack designed for these dimensions isn't available off-the-shelf. But the small size actually makes a custom build very manageable.
This guide covers a bolt-together design using square steel tubing and bed rail clamps, which requires no welding. If you have access to a welder, you can simplify the build and make it even stronger, but the bolted version is plenty robust for loads up to 300 pounds. Know your truck's payload limits before you start loading it up.
Tools Needed
You will need a metal chop saw or angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, a drill with metal-rated drill bits (cobalt or titanium), a tape measure, a speed square, clamps, a wrench set for the mounting hardware, and a rattle can of primer and paint (or bed liner spray for a textured finish). If going the welded route, a MIG welder with appropriate wire and gas is the obvious addition.
Build Steps
Measure your bed rail width, bed length, and desired rack height. A typical rack stands 12-16 inches above the bed rails, which is enough for a rooftop tent or lumber without making the truck excessively tall. Cut four vertical uprights and four horizontal crossbars from the square tubing. The uprights bolt to the bed rails using clamp-style brackets that grip the rail from both sides — this avoids drilling into the bed itself.
Assemble the two side frames first: each side frame is two uprights connected by a horizontal crossbar at the top. Then connect the two side frames with front and rear crossbars to create a rigid rectangular structure. Use grade 8 bolts at all joints and apply threadlocker. Once the frame is assembled and square, sand any rough edges, apply primer, and finish with your choice of paint or bed liner coating.
Mount the completed rack to the bed rails using the clamp brackets. Tighten evenly on all four corners and check that the rack does not rock or shift. Add accessory crossbars or a mesh deck on top depending on your intended use — T-slot extrusion crossbars are popular because they accept standard accessories like awning mounts and light bars.
Tips and Warnings
If you plan to mount a rooftop tent, reinforce the mounting points with gusset plates and ensure the load is distributed across at least two crossbars. Single-point loading on square tubing can cause deflection over time. Also consider how the added height affects your ability to enter garages and parking structures — measure your total height with the rack (and tent if applicable) before finding out the hard way.
Aluminum tubing is a lighter alternative to steel and will not rust, but it costs roughly twice as much and requires specialized welding (TIG with argon) if you choose a welded design. For most builders, mild steel with a good coating is the practical choice.
What's Next
Now that you've got a rack, the truck's potential just opened up. If you haven't already done the LED headlight upgrade, do that — you'll need visibility for those camping trips. The lift kit guide pairs well with a rack if you're building an overlanding rig. And if you're hauling heavy with the rack, Jake's tire guide covers the best options for loaded kei trucks. For more bed organization, check out the toolbox and storage guide.